Food influences of the Dutch in the Hudson Valley

By Eric L. Schawaroch

When we talk about the settling of North America, the Pilgrims landing at Plymouth Rock is the first thing that comes to mind for most of us. But before the Pilgrims even left England the Dutch were already here. As we approach the quadricentennial of the arrival of the Dutch in the Hudson Valley let us look at what influence they have had on us and the region. The Dutch left a lasting impression on many aspects of life in the Hudson Valley, including the foods we eat.

On the third of his voyages to the New World, Henry Hudson sailed the Half Moon into what is today New York Harbor on September 11, 1609 and headed up the river that bears his name looking for a northern route to the Orient. He went as far as Albany. Upon his return to Holland, he told tales of a rich and fertile land abundant in furs, timber, and other natural resources. The Hudson Valley would come to be referred to as the “Land of Milk and Honey.” The Dutch saw this as a great opportunity and established the New Netherland Territory between 1614 and 1617. With trading outposts in place, a variety of Dutch tradesmen came to seek their fortune. They were carpenters, wheelwrights, coopers, and blacksmiths. Of course, bread bakers and beer brewers were needed – these were two major components of the daily diet in the seventeenth century.

So what did the Dutch diet consist of in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries? The soil in Holland is very damp (think of the boy with his finger in the dike), so grass grew well in the meadows which gave rise to raising animals like cows, sheep, and pigs, which in turn gave them a diet rich in butter, cheese, and meat, as well as fish from the surrounding waters. In Holland—where the economy was strong and fueled by trade—many food products were also available. These included wines from Italy and Spain; beer from Germany; olish grains; raisins, dates, figs, and nuts from the Mediterranean; sugar from the Caribbean; and spices from India and the Spice Islands.

Breakfast was usually bread and butter or cheese, with beer to wash it down in the city and buttermilk in the country. The bread of the rich was white or wheat bread and of the poor was rye bread. In the city, the midday meal was the main meal and generally consisted of three courses. A hutspot—or one pot meal of meat and vegetables cooked in what we call a “Dutch oven”—some type of fish, and then some vegetables or fruit. In the country or farm, porridge might be the midday fare and then by mid-afternoon some bread and butter would be eaten. In both cases, the evening meal would consist of leftovers and some bread, butter, and cheese.

The food ways of the New World were influenced by the Dutch and the land they came to settle. The Dutch planted fruit trees such as apple, pear and peach: vegetables such as lettuce, cabbage, parsnips, carrots and beets; and herbs to flavor their diet such as rosemary, chives, and tarragon. They also brought horses, pigs and cows. Here they found an abundance of fish, fowl, and other wild animals they added to their diet. As they developed a trading relationship with Native Americans, they were exposed to corn, beans, and squash (the “three sisters”), cranberries and maple syrup or “sweet water.” Native American tribes prized Dutch baked goods and wheat breads, sweet breads and cookies were used in trade. They were so popular that in 1649 an ordinance for Fort Orange and the village of Beverwijck (now Albany) forbade the baking of bread and cookies for the Native Americans.  

The Dutch also brought the tools of cooking they used in Holland: frying pans for pancakes, Dutch ovens for stews and pot roasts, and irons for making waffles, wafers, and cookies. As their cooking developed, they started to incorporate the new ingredients they found into their traditional recipes. Pumpkin and cornmeal were introduced to pancakes, porridge used cornmeal  to make Suppaen en Melk or Indian pudding (being Dutch they added milk to it). When raisins were not available, they started using cranberries. Other things they made included pretzels (which originally were sweet), Oeli-Koeken or doughnuts, Hooofdkaas or head cheese, Zult or pickled meat, Kool Slaa or coleslaw, Worst  or sausages and Krulljes or crullers.

Diet is just one aspect of Dutch influence on dining in America and the Hudson Valley. The practice of eating on china rather than pewter was due to their wealth. It was later found to be a health benefit as well, because pewter can be toxic. By the end of the century  the wealthy were giving their guests knives and spoons to eat with. The fork took some time to come into fashion as it was deemed unnecessary since “God has given us Fingers.”

Many holiday celebrations have Dutch connections, including some modern-day Christmas traditions. On New Year’s Eve, people made lots of noise and shared wafers or cookies cooked in an iron with traditional imprints on them. The next day, they would visit friends and bring Nieuwjaarskoeken or New Year’s Cake. For Epiphany on January 6, pancakes and waffles were traditionally eaten. One Dutch Easter tradition that continues is eating hard boiled eggs.

This is just a “taste” of the Dutch influence on America. During the quadricentennial, we can enjoy the food and culture the Dutch brought to the “Land of Milk and Honey,” or as we call it: The Hudson Valley. Good eating!

Eric l. Schawaroch, C.H.E. is an  assistant professor in Culinary Arts at The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, www.CIAChef.edu

A 1984 graduate of the CIA, Chef Schawaroch returned to his alma mater after working as executive chef at Saks Fifth Avenue/The Café SFA, among other fine establishments such as The Plaza Hotel and The Helmsley Palace Hotel, all in New York City. Chef Schawaroch teaches Culinary Skill Development in the college’s degree programs. He is a member of the American Culinary Federation, Club Chefs of Westchester, La Toques Blanches, and the National Executive Chefs Association. He is a Certified Hospitality Educator (C.H.E.).

 

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